Photosensitive Essential Oils: The What & How

Essential oils are highly concentrated natural extracts from the flowers, leaves, seeds, or roots of plants. They are widely used for aromatherapy, skincare, and healthy lifestyles. However, not all essential oils are the same when it comes to exposure to sunlight. Some essential oils are photosensitive, meaning they can react negatively when exposed to sunlight. In this blog, we'll explore what photosensitive oils are, list some common ones to avoid in the sun, and share tips on how to use them safely.

What are Photosensitive Oils?

Photosensitive oils (aka phototoxic oils) contain specific natural chemicals that react to ultraviolet (UV) light. This reaction can cause skin irritation or a burn-like reaction when the skin treated with any of these oils applied, is exposed to sunlight or other sources of UV light.  This includes tanning beds.

The chemical compounds responsible for this reaction are primarily furanocoumarins. The most common furanocoumarin is bergapten, found predominantly in citrus oils. When these chemicals are activated by UV light, they can significantly increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, leading to redness, burning, blistering, or discoloration. Some people are so sensitive to these oils that it can take months for the reaction to clear up.

Here's a list of commonly used essential oils that are known to be photosensitive:

1. Bergamot: One of the most phototoxic essential oils due to its high bergapten content.
2. Lime: Cold-pressed lime oil is highly phototoxic.
3. Lemon: Like lime, the cold-pressed version is phototoxic.
4. Grapefruit: Less phototoxic than bergamot, but still a risk in the sun.
5. Bitter Orange: Phototoxic; sweet orange is generally considered safe.
6. Fig Leaf: Rarely used but highly phototoxic.
7. Cumin: Phototoxic, though less commonly used in skincare.

Tips for Using Photosensitive Oils Safely

1. Dilution is Key: Always dilute essential oils properly before use (and not just photosensitive oils). A general rule of thumb for topical applications is to keep the concentration low. For example, diluting to a concentration of less than 1% can help minimize risk.
2. Avoid Sun Exposure: After applying a product containing photosensitive oils, avoid exposure to sunlight for at least 12 to 24 hours. This timeframe can vary based on the specific oil and its concentration.
3. Choose Steam-Distilled Oils: For some oils, like lime and lemon, choosing steam-distilled versions can reduce the risk of phototoxicity, as this process may not pull out the phototoxic compounds.
4. Test First: Before using any new oil or essential oil product, perform a patch test to see how your skin reacts. Apply a small amount to a discreet area and wait 24 hours to observe any adverse reactions. Everyone is different, so caution is the best approach.
5. Wear Protective Clothing: If you need to go out into the sun, cover areas where photosensitive oils were applied, or use a broad-spectrum sunscreen (though this may not completely protect against phototoxic reactions). If you know that your especially susceptible to the reaction these oils cause - don't use them OR stay out of the sun for at least 24 hours!
6. Use at Night: Consider using photosensitive oils in your nighttime routine. This way, your skin is less likely to be exposed to sunlight while the oil is still active. Bergamot is a great essential oil for skin, so any lotion that contains it is either formulated and advertised to be used at night, or the concentration is very low.

Conclusion

While essential oils can offer numerous benefits, it's crucial to use them wisely.  Just because something is Natural doesn't mean that it is safe in every way.  Be aware of which oils are phototoxic, how they affect you, and following safety guidelines can help you enjoy the benefits of essential oils without risking your skin's health. Always consult with a healthcare provider or a certified aromatherapist if you're unsure about using any new product, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. And most of all - do your own research into what is right for you!